Save or Splurge on Prague

The New York Times just published a "Save or Splurge" guide to ten different European cities. I've included a link to Prague's section in my title. Most of the places they recommended are new to me with the exception of the Aria Hotel. Just based on having a wander around the lobby and the music library, it looks every inch as cool as they describe.

Something Better Than Valentine's Day

Yes, yes, I know ladies, you're looking at my headline with befuddlement and asking "what could be better than Valentine's Day?"

The Czechs would tell you that what's better than Valentine's Day is their day for lovers, May Day.


In recent years, the insensitive business forces of globalization have used the fact that our world is getting more and more interconnected to try and export typically American holidays like Halloween and Valentine's Day to the Czech Republic. It would never occur to me that a successful business could be made from selling people stuff for holidays not their own. That doesn't stop corporations from trying.

But they Czechs say they don't need Valentine's Day. May Day is their day for lovers. Indeed, the whole month of May is "the month for lovers." The Czech tradition is that lovers must kiss under a blossoming tree on May 1st. In Prague, they have an entire hill overlooking the city, called Petrin Hill, filled with blossoming trees that are just starting to peak.

What I love about the tradition is it is the same for students and moguls alike. It isn't about spending money. It's about spending time together. It's human. Not corporate.

So while it's easy to think yet another romantic holiday would be harmless on anyone's calendar, how would all you American ladies feel if the Czechs tried to sell you on the idea of celebrating Easter their way: with these crazy pomlazkas (braided willow branches) that are used to beat women's behinds until they hand over a colored egg! Not quite ready to adopt that idea, are we?

Watching Obama Land in Prague

Grant P., a fellow expat in Prague, watched Obama come into Prague on Air Force One. This is a mere stock photo of Air Force One. Grant's video is great! Check out his post by clicking on my title.

Prague in Photos

My friend Michael, writing at Blogging Gelle, created a wonderful photo essay entitled "A Sunday Walk in Prague II." If you haven't seen it yet, take a look.

What I especially enjoyed about it was his first 'photo walk' of about a year ago was sooooooo inspiring to me as I planned my journey to Prague and thought about living here. Now I live here and I know most of the places in his essay! How cool is that?

Click on my title to see his work.

"We are here because enough people ignored the voices who told them that the world could not change!"

What's Latin for "they came, they saw, they charmed?" That's what President and Mrs. Obama did when he spoke to the Czech people on April 5th, 2009 on a hazy Sunday morning at Hradcany Namesti (Prague Castle Square).

Beginning with Czech history from Chicago (something well-known to Czech people and hardly known outside of Chicago within America), President Obama shared his Chicago roots in a way that charmed the Czechs and Americans like me in the audience. He honored Czech people for things they love about themselves and by extension, that Czechs teach foreigners to love about them as well: their humor, their high level of culture, their "unconquerable spirit despite empires rising and falling, and the "revolutions ... led in arts and sciences, politics, and poetry. "

My very favorite part of the speech was one I did not expect. When he was establishing connection with his Czech audience, President Obama talked about the improbability of him serving the United States as President and of Czech people being free to live their lives in democracy:

"We are here today because enough people ignored the voices who told them that the world could not change."

What a perfect thing to say to a nation of skeptics who don't believe that democracy will change anything, who don't believe that corruption can ever end, and that don't believe their politicians will stop arguing and start governing. President Obama was asking Czechs to believe. It was easily the most moving part of his speech.

He was asking them to recognize their own power as citizens and visionaries if they organize and work for and believe in change. After all, it was their first democratically-elected President, President Vaclav Havel, who proved that "moral leadership is more important than any weapon." Believe, Czech people, believe!

He did not come here to argue the merits of the proposed missile defense system to the Czech people. He aimed much bigger than that. He came to propose a nuclear-free world. Now if any other politician proposed such a thing in a speech, I have to admit, I would roll my eyes that he expected me to believe such a Pollyanna vision is possible. But if there is anything I have learned about my President is that he accomplishes things that others might not even dream up. This is a man who had his credit card denied trying to get into the Democratic convention in 2000 in Los Angelas just so he could attend and eight years later was the nominee of his party. I'm not discounting the possibility that he could actually do it.

He broke the whole idea of eliminating nuclear weapons down to manageable short-term goals, any one of which would be an accomplishment in it's own right. Godspeed, Mr. President.

He even labeled the Czech Republic as a being in the heart of Central Europe, not Eastern Europe! Americans labelling the Czech Republic as "Eastern Europe" drives Czech people crazy. We Yanks can't help it, we still have that Iron Curtain line in our heads. When I talk to Czech friends my age, I realize they do too. It is a new generation, born in freedom, that has a new reality. Major charm points, President Obama. Thanks for coming to the Czech Republic!

There are great photos of President and Mrs. Obama in Prague on the White House blog dated April 9, 2009 at http://www.whitehouse.gov/blog.

President Obama in Prague!

Dreams of My Father (in Czech!)

President Obama came to Prague to speak and 30,000 of us showed up! I was excited especially after my blogged open letter asking President Obama to come to Prague to talk to the Czechs about the radar base was read by a corespondent at the BBC. A producer emailed me and asked if I would be willing to do an interview. "Could you also find us a skeptical Czech to interview," they asked. Someone who represents Prime Minister Topolanek's viewpoint [that the American way is the "highway to hell?"]. Ha. That would be easy. ALL Czechs are skeptical!

I tried to get a press pass at the American Cultural Center. And why not? Bloggers get press passes to almost everything back home from the Democratic and Republican conventions to the Inauguration. Now that newspapers are closing at the rate of one a week in America, bloggers have never been a more important part of the democracy conversation. I have to admit I felt sheepish though when I took my place in press pass pickup line and asked the embassy lady if I was on the list. The guy in front of me was from Danish TV. The guy behind me was from the Washington Post Berlin bureau.

"Name?" she said. I told her my first name and surname. "No, the name of your media outlet." I gamely replied "Empty Nest Expat." Gentle readers, you would have been proud of me. I managed to carry that off with a straight face. "Uh, I don't think you're on the list," she said. "But here, she said, is an invitation to have a closer spot at the speech."

It was harder than I thought to find a skeptical Czech who was willing to go with me and be interviewed. I called a friend on April 1st and asked him but he couldn't talk right then. He called me back the next day and asked "Is this for real? I was laying in bed thinking about it and then I remembered that you Americans have this holiday...." No, no. This was for real. Not an April Fool's joke.

I asked another Czech who I knew to be really skeptical of Obama's stimulus package. He had asked me after the stimulus package passed, "Why is America spending all of that money going into debt? We [the Czech Republic] couldn't afford that debt. And why is all of that money being funneled to companies rather than regular people? It just creates graft."

He wouldn't be my skeptical Czech either though. "Journalists? I'm skeptical of them too. They just pull a bit out of what everyone says to manipulate the news." Man, these Czechs are tough cookies. They don't have much faith in ANYBODY!

Luckily, I met this articulate young man at the tram stop on the way to the speech. We instantly hit it off. He looked at my invitation and said "this is very Czech. It's meaningless. It's just to make you feel important while you stand with everyone else at the speech."

"But it's from the American Embassy!" I said. "Doesn't matter. It's not going to get you any closer. This is Czech," he kept saying.

He was right. We were in the back half, far, far from the press risers. The producer emailed me and said they were unable to get down from the risers to talk to the people. It didn't look like the interview would come off. I was disappointed but knew that the interview wasn't the point of the morning.

Protestors at the entrance to Prague Castle.

Gee, I guess I needn't have worried
about how I looked when I went
to try and get a press pass.

Yes, that number is 70!

A Czech patriot wearing his medals
and proudly displaying a beloved photograph
of his father with Founder of the Czech Republic Masaryk.
This man was imprisoned by Communists after WWII.

My pal Petr whom I met that day
kept me entertained for three hours.
He was my skeptical Czech!

Michael
aka Blogging Gelle!

Everybody watching for the big entrance.

30,000 cameras reach up as the couple takes the stage.

The experience itself was underwhelming.
Three hours of waiting
with the realization you can't see a thing!

Thank goodness someone invented YouTube.
I hope to write more
about Obama's speech after the Easter Holiday.

The American flag, the Czech flag,
and the European Union Flag.

There is always room for wit on my blog.
These protestors made their point
by making everyone smile.

30,000 people leaving the square -
all wanting to go
a different direction than us.

After we had left the square, I got another text from the producer saying "can you come down here in five minutes, we are able to get off the risers." By then we were long gone out of the square and going back through the alley of 30,000 people and into the square would easily have taken a half hour.

I have increased appreciation for journalists after this. We were tired. We just wanted to go home. Journalists have to write something, after all that standing, and then produce it on deadline. Their job is a lot less glamorous than TV makes it look. And they do it day, after day, after day.

Fashion Report: First Beautiful Spring Evening in Prague

The sun was shining in Prague and
the energy of the people last night was fantastic.
Here the sun sets on a
beautiful church just off of Charles Bridge.

I was enjoying one of my favorite walks home.
Going from Malastranske Namesti across the
Charles Bridge through Old Town Square
to my place.

I chatted up many interesting people along the way.
This beautiful woman is from London
and has lived here for fourteen years.
She is a walking advertisement for her profession - stylist.
She was so visually arresting walking across the Bridge
she literally stopped traffic.

Check out this pin the man in the gray suit
is wearing! How cool is that?
It's a dirigible.

A group of Europeans in their 1930s best.

I thought there might have been some retro dance
but this lady was going in the opposite direction
in Old Town Square. It almost looks like her
period car is waiting for her behind her
(it's a car for hire for sightseeing around Prague).

This American and his friend made me laugh.
They made these T-shirts themselves.
They're not actually gay.
They just have serious man crushes.

Such is the excitement in Prague this weekend

about President Obama's visit!

The American Embassy is reporting four times

the normally requested number of press passes

have been asked for.

You might also enjoy:

Czech Fashion Report: Tall Black Boots

Beautiful Slavic Faces

Dear President Obama, Please Come to the Czech Republic