A Magnificent Milwaukee Morning

On a drop-dead gorgeous day it was impossible to go inside
my favorite building in America, the Milwaukee Art Museum.
The weather compelled me to enjoy it from the outside.
This is the original wing of the Museum,
designed by Finnish-American Eero Saarinen in 1957.
Looks completely of the moment to me.

Here's the part of the Museum that I adore,
the Quadracci Pavillion,
by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava.
Genius!

A view of the lower level cafe which is a perfect place for watching the promenade of people enjoying the lakefront.
At high noon, the bird begins to open her wings.

Fantastic, yes?
Below is another newly developed museum
for children, Discovery World.

The Milwaukee lakefront is perfect for boaters, kayakers, sailors,

kite-flyers, rollerbladers, bicyclists, paddleboaters, strollers,
and tourists just enjoying the day.

It is a terrific city for pedestrians -
always something to see

This is the newest addition to the city: Bronzie Fonzie.
Fonz, was a central character on the sitcom "Happy Days,"

which was set in Milwaukee.

The statue went up along the Milwaukee riverfront in August 2008
and the city had a parade for all the cast members.
The only one who couldn't come was "Ritchie Cunningham"
who was off directing a movie (in real life).
The city wants you to send them your pic with the Fonz!
Clink on the link to see some fun examples.

Behind this hidden, non-descript entrance
in a Milwaukee downtown alley
is a top-secret bar and restaurant that is sure to make you smile

at it's silly creativity and playfulness.

You have to know the password to get in -
after all, only top spies get the highest clearance.
I'd tell you more,
but I've programmed this picture to disappear in five seconds....

you'll have to ask a Milwaukee native to take you...

And today the New York Times published an article
"36 Hours in Milwaukee."
Click on the link to reach it.

A Visit to Hog Heaven

What else would be parked in the parking lot?

I am not a biker.

I have to admit though, when the 100th anniversary of the Harley-Davidson company happened a few years ago, I couldn't help but notice the sheer quantity of people who l-o-v-e-d their bike and the company that made it so much, they came from all over to ride into Milwaukee, Wisconsin for the festivities. Many of these people passed through Illinois on the way there and you could tell they were having a blast.

Were I to buy something motorized and on two wheels, I'm more of a Vespa or Honda Metropolitan kind of gal. Yet the rabid, passionate brand identification of Harley riders made me want to know more about the Harley mystique. There is nothing I love more than exploring yet another one of America's many subcultures.

I had total respect for the success that this company has achieved marketing iconic machines made in America (could you see the manufacture of Harleys outsourced to China? I couldn't. The mystique would not be the same).

The new museum opened in July 2008

I must not be the only one who's interested. This summer the company opened a very cool, very hip museum celebrating all things Harley. And like someone who never wants to give up the memories of the love of their life, this company and the people in it, saved every memento from the very beginning. The long view of a relationship this community of bike lovers has with their beloved product is amazingly rare.

Until I came to see this, I didn't realize that Harleys are a global phenomenon. Ninety percent of the visitors in the museum the day I was there were from Europe or Asia. When I saw the look of appreciation on their faces at the distinctive sound of a Harley starting up, it moved me. People from all over care about this distinctly American cultural institution! Who knew? Is this how you feel when tourists come see your sights in your area? What cultural institution where you live is similarly appreciated?

It makes me happy that people love this because it represents the best of America: freedom and the power of the individual.

In keeping with the industrial feel of Harleys,
the benches outside the museum are I-beams.

Harley admission staff welcome people
from all over the globe

Admission is $16 for adults and an audio tour is available for $5. I highly recommend adding the audio tour because sound is such an important part of the experience and there's lots of commentary from people who've been involved from the beginning.

The very first Harley from 1903

I would think a reintroduction of vintage Harleys
could steal market share from scooters.
I could ride this.

Bikers debating the relative merits
of individual bikes in the
world's largest collection of Harleys

A mother and twenty-something daughter rode this bike and sidecar across country in the early part of the century. When the bike sprang a flat tire, the daughter walked into town from the desert to get a new innertube; her mom needed to survive for two days without food and water armed with a pistol she didn't know how to use. They made it without regrets!

Way cool vintage motorcycle toys

The mom in me thinks there couldn't be a museum better
than this one for showing a teen
the fun of a career in industrial design.
This display lets you listen to the sounds
of Harley engines through the ages.

"Form follow function -
but both report to emotion."
~Harley-Davidson Chief Styling Officer

Remember the movie "Easy Rider"
with Jack Nickleson and Peter Fonda?
Here are reproductions of the bikes.
One of the most fun and campy spots of the museum
is a collection of motorcycle movie clips.

Harley staffer Gary can answer your questions
in one of the motorcycle galleries

Customizing your Harley
is a big part of making a bike your own
This guy obviously did not worry about being over-the-top

Neither did this guy

Harley-Davidson has created the finest example
of corporate archiving I have ever seen.
They have everything: early sales brochures,
board minutes,
individual motorcycles,
and motorcycles of celebrities like Elvis.
On Fridays the museum offers a "back roads tour"
of the archives.

Here an archivist carefully unpacks
numerous items of Harley clothing

I was ready to test drive a bike after that tour!
Bravo to the vision of men and women in Milwaukee
who created a great product and a storied company

The Aspens are Quaking!

I've arrived in Colorado where my mom and sister live. My timing couldn't be better. The aspens are at their peak - it's as if someone poured liquid gold on the mountains and let it follow the path of least resistance this way and that creating stunning beauty amongst already stunning landscape.

Before leaving the American Midwest I took a trip through Wisconsin, Illinois, Missouri, Iowa and Nebraska to see some of the people and places I had a hankering to see. It was fantastic! One of the things that happens with an empty nest is that I'm able to devote more time to my friendships and letting people know they matter to me. Plus, I saw a lot of neat stuff. Over the next few days, I'll highlight some of the sights that I enjoyed. Meanwhile, I'm off for a picnic lunch in the Rocky Mountains!

Casting My Vote

I moved out of my home in Illinois before absentee ballots for the presidential election were scheduled to be mailed out. I called to see if my ballot could be forwarded, or sent to a P.O. Box, or all kinds of different scenarios. None of them were allowed.

If I moved to Prague immediately, I would have two residences in the first 40 days (student housing and then my own apartment), which probably complicates my voting. I was not willing to risk not being able to vote.

So I'm slowly making my way to Colorado where my family lives. I want to spend some serious face time with my Mom and my sister before going overseas and it turns out if I live in Colorado for thirty days, I can cast my vote there. My vote will actually matter more in Colorado because it's a swing state. I don't care about that as much as just getting to add my two cents. People gave their lives so I could do that!

Thanks for the great memories!

My Morning Constitutional

One of the great pleasures of living in this city is the Rock River. Most mornings I go down to the riverfront to take a walk or a rollarblade and enjoy the calm. These are some pictures from this summer.

First I'm greeted by a Karen on the other side!

The river right before dawn

Doesn't this tree bring out your inner eight-year-old?

What could be in there?
Be glad smells don't transfer through the Internet -
someone put a dead fish in there

Every fall the rowing club holds the Rock River Regatta,
a very spirited competition

Brick apartment buildings always make me smile
because they make me think of Lincoln Park neighborhood in Chicago
full of young people with their first job in the city

There are many beautiful yards and homes along the way

When I first came to town and saw this plaque,
I thought it was so cool.
It was from 1927 - wow, that's so OLD!
Do you think I'll have to redefine my version of OLD
when I move to Prague?

A perfect spot for the weekend

This homeowner asks passerbys to select a ribbon
and join her in a traditional Tibetan
prayer for peace

A wall of whimsy

This is "Symbol," an outdoor sculpture

created by Alexander Liberman,
an artist born in Kiev, Ukraine

On the way to more fun sculpture -
I love this family!

That's it! Three miles of constant beauty
It's been a pleasure to experience throughout the seasons

My Own Bed

There was this lady in Chicago named Bernadette.

Bernadette was a single mum and had her own set of children. She then took in her sister's kids when her sister was going through a heroin addiction and wasn't caring for them properly. I can't remember how many kids there were total but it was around six.

Bernadette worked at Starbuck's in Chicago and passed sunshine on to every single person who came into her store. Her attitude was remarkable and she did nothing but give, give, give with enthusiasm to everyone she came in contact with. One of her customers or coworkers came to know her well, know her story, and wrote Oprah and said "here's a beautiful lady who could use some help."

Well, the resulting show was so touching and so moving that it was even featured in one of the Ocean Eleven movies. George Clooney's character asked Brad Pitt's character, "you're not going to cry, are you?"

Oprah bought Bernadette a house, had Nate Berkus, her decorator, fix it up, promised the entire family she would send them all to college, and basically changed the trajectory of their entire life.

When Oprah asked one of the teenage boys, "what was your favorite part of this whole experience." He said, "the first night when I got to sleep in my own bed." He and his brothers and sisters had all had to share beds. My mouth fell to the floor. His gratitude for something so simple was so profound.

Ever since then, I've had a GREAT appreciation for my own bed. I know my emotions are in overdrive as I get ready to move but I'm just really aware that I have two nights left in my OWN bed. He and Oprah taught me something that day, which of course, is why people go so crazy for her.