The Infant Jesus of Prague

My friend Sher and I decided at the beginning of the year that one of the things we were going to do together was visit each other's churches here in Prague. Now suggesting this to your pals is not something one does in one's twenties, is it? That already tells you something about us.

Our Lady of Victory Catholic Church
in Mala Strana, Prague

Is this idea one you can propose to all of your friends? No. You can have a whole passel of friends and not one of them might be interested. It's awfully nice to be able to share faith with someone though, isn't it? It seems intimate. If you were getting to know someone what greater representation of their culture is there than how they worship?

Sher and I are both Protestants but it's hard to find the same denomination over here that we went to in America. She attends Our Lady of Victory Catholic Church in Prague and so I joined her there one Sunday.

Sher's big smile

is caused by seeing sunshine!

My friend Sher lives with chronic illness, asthma and the like, and if I can brag about her for a moment, she does so with considerable humor and grace. The three weeks prior to meeting her on this Sunday she had spent in salubrious solitude (otherwise known as quarantine to those of you not euphemistically-inclined).

Imagine, three weeks in a city apartment and not being able to go outside! Could you do it? I don't think I could. She figured out how to turn it into a positive experience by setting all sorts of goals and accomplishing them.

I love going to other people's churches. Back home in America, I especially enjoyed going to black churches because the music was usually gospel and usually amazing. If a Czech went to an African-American church it might seem as exotic and as foreign to them as Our Lady of Victory Catholic Church seemed to me. I had never been to a church that was packed with people from all over the world who had come on pilgrimage to see something.

The church is sooo busy that it has multiple masses over the weekend in Czech, English, French, Spanish, and Italian. Once Sher attended a Japanese mass there just to see what it was like. This isn't the kind of church that builds great local community because the out-of-town attendees are usually here for just one service.

Why have all these people come to this church? Because they want to pray to the Infant Jesus of Prague, otherwise known as The Prague Bambino.

I first heard of the Prague Bambino in Bohumil Hrabal's book "I Served the King of England." But others have heard of it through more conventional religious means. Wikipedia has a nice, short explanation of how the legend started here. Sher also explained that many people find praying to an infant representation of Jesus less intimidating than the full grown man.

While I found the Infant Jesus of Prague statue exotic to my own faith, one thing that happened during the service unexpectedly took me right back to my childhood. The Philipino choir singing for the service sang every verse of the great hymn "How Great Thou Art." My grandmother and mom used to play it on the piano when I was growing up. Mr. Hendrickson, my childhood neighbor who sang at my wedding, also sang this hymn frequently through the years. Hearing it made me homesick. It was beautiful.

The beautiful baroque altar
at the front of the church
is almost fully restored

The priest's pulpit
off to the side.
It's unused
in our more informal times.

Pilgrims from all over the world
pray to the Infant Jesus of Prague
for deliverance from their suffering
after the service.
Note the "thank you" plaques
on the side wall for answered prayers.

The Infant Jesus of Prague
or the Prague Bambino
in his glass case and white clothes

A beautiful baroque side alter
at the church

This is how people
stay warm in these old churches.
The pumice stones attached
to the backs of the pews
radiate gentle warmth.

The spiral staircase up to the Museum of the Infant Jesus.
Seamstresses express their faith by sending the Infant Jesus
clothes from all over the world.
Several of the most spectacular outfits are on display.

The exquisite craftsmanship
on these outfits
is meticulous.

This beautiful red overcoat
with the dragon came from Vietnam.

Immediately after Sher's day out, she had to go right back into her salubrious solitude because she got sick and so did her husband. Her can-do attitude regarding chronic illness is as beautiful expression of faith as this church.

Celebrating Four Months in the Czech Republic

On March 5th, I celebrated four months in the Czech Republic. It's more fabulous than I expected! So are the people. Over my next four months I really want to concentrate on learning the language. I saw a book "Speak Czech in 30 days!" Do you think it can be done? :-)

This is a picture from the window of my flat taken on a wondrous snowy Saturday when the flakes were huge and the spirit of the day was relaxed and cozy. I love living here.

Inspiration at the Post Office

A trip to the post office isn't always inspiring. Not so with this one one street off of Wenceslas Square. It's beautifully lit from above. Pictures don't do it justice. Different Czech archtypes from history are painted on the wall. I would have loved to show more but they chased me off.

Fantova Kavarna: Waiting Patiently for Its Closeup

For romantic expatriate culture, many have said that the most wonderful time to come to Prague was when it first opened up to the West. Everything was possible and nothing was certain. I much prefer coming later, when much of romantic Prague has been restored and is ready for us to enjoy.

In the Main Train Station in Prague, known as Hlavni Nadrazi, the government is upgrading the facilities. One glorious corner, currently very much out of the way, is patiently waiting its turn for a return to greatness. Come, let's enjoy it for a moment before the restoration teams come in...

In the Main Train Station in Prague
known as Hlavni Nadrazi,
there is a cafe known
as the Fantova Kavarna.

It must have been a
beautiful cafe in its day.

The stained glass window with city light pouring in

People hustle to their trains underneath the dome
while others relax for a moment
above them in the coffeeshop (Kavarna)

A table for two

October 28, 1918:
Independence Day from
the Austrian-Hungarian Empire

The architect who inspired the name of the Cafe

The rotunda of the Fantova Kavarna
had a separate window for each of the most
popular destinations - like Moscow

Each ceiling shield represents
one of the grand European destinations.

The ceiling is rotting while it waits for restoration
but you can see its former glories
and what it can become again.

Your train has arrived on time
A beautiful city awaits you

The hallway leading to where the
grand railway station restaurant
once bustled with travelers

This glorious old restaurant room
is now full of tables selling secondhand clothes.
What will it be when it's restored?

Your elegant entry to the train platforms

Beautiful fence detail

In some places you really have to
use your imagination to see what's possible
but I have no doubt beauty will return.

This is the Czech Republic
where beauty is created everywhere.

Entertaining President Havel at the White House

Here at the Empty Nest Expat blog, I occasionally can't resist trying to be useful. The librarian in me, rabidly interested in politics, would like to recommend to anyone in the Czech Government who will help host the new American Secretary of State and President Obama in April, finding a copy of Hillary Clinton's wonderful book called "Entertaining at the White House."

There's a chapter that describes the State Dinner that she and Bill Clinton planned and pulled off for Czech President Vaclav Havel. The details of the dinner capture all of the hopes of America for the new Czech Democracy led by Mr. Havel and the lengths America went to show it's respect. It's a delightful and fascinating read.

Russian Leader Reacts to U.S. Offer on Iran

Here's a further update on the proposed missile defense system to built in the Czech Republic with the Russian reaction to President Obama's secret letter to Russian President Medvedev. Click on the title to read and listen.

The Latest on the Proposed Missile Defense System

It looks like President Obama is hard at work at finding a solution to the proposed missile system that works for all countries. Maybe he's trying to get an answer from Russia before he comes here on April 5th. Click on the title to read the full article from the New York Times.