#EnSonNeOkudun What are you reading lately?

If one stays in a country long enough as an expat, it's easy to see places where one could contribute.

Turkey recently had its 90th anniversary and it got me to thinking about Turkish reading culture as Turkey approaches its centennial as a Republic. Reading culture here is still a flame in need of kindling, simply because of the incredibly interesting history of the Turkish language.

Turkey used to have an alphabet that looked like Arabic script. It was hard to read because it wasn't consistent, and it contained many loan words from Arabic, Persian, and French. Often court language and the language in the hinterlands wasn't the same.

Atatürk reformed the Turkish language by adopting the Latin alphabet. Think about what a gigantic change that was for Turkish people to absorb! And that was just one of the reforms he was undertaking at the time. When the Republic was formed, only 10% of the population was literate (it was an empire, after all).

I often tell my friends Atatürk and his generation changed the language so people could learn to read, the next generation did exactly that, and now the third generation's job is to learn to love to read.

I meet Turkish "reading role models" everywhere. As a librarian, I nurture, support, and help create reading communities. I thought that Turkey and the Turkish language needed a Twitter hash tag like the English-language one that celebrates reading culture called #Fridayreads. To use a Turkish hash tag that suggested #Fridayreads had religious connotations, so after another false start I finally settled on #EnSonNeOkudun.

I know people will be enthusiastic about something they just read and share it with this hashtag 24/7. But, because Friday is one of the heaviest volume days on Twitter, our beginning community of readers will concentrate their reading celebration all on one day, Friday, every week. Someone looking for a good read for the weekend is sure to find one. Weekly rituals become just that, rituals!

I hope to create conversations about books, blogs, magazine and newspaper articles and help readers discover reading culture and just plain help people find great things to read. People tweeting using this hashtag won't be only using Turkish because there's a sizeable population of Turks reading in multiple languages. Plus, there's a whole expat community in Turkey who also wants to get in on the fun. They'll be tweeting in their native languages.

One of my very favorite things about the idea is that it brings people together, rather than polarizes them. Turkish folks could use some of that right now.

I have messaged friends and my tweeps I've never even met "Can you help me launch #ensonneokudun? Let's celebrate Turkish reading culture - tweet your read each Friday in Turkish or English. Thank you."

The response has been so touching. People say things like, "What can I do to help? Thanks for asking me to participate. I will ask my friends to do it too." Truly, it makes me tear up. I think the phrase "what can I do to help?" maybe even more of a set of magic words than please and thank you.  It's fun to build something together with people.

So I ask you, Turks and the Turkophile community: #EnSonNeOkudun? What are you reading lately?

"The Wall: Growing Up Behind the Iron Curtain" by Peter Sis

Yesterday I read a children's picture book that took me right back to the nine months I spent in Prague, Czech Republic.

Peter Sis, a Czechoslovak immigrant to America in the 1980s, wrote about what it was like to be born at the start of the Communist regime and grow up in a totalitarian system.

When I lived in Prague, I had listened with extraordinary intent to Czech friends who had gone through this history. I loved hearing their experiences, their wisdom from what they had been through, and learning from them how people and families cope with a dystopian reality.

Peter Sis has compressed his own history and his nations' history into this graphical history that can be read in less than an hour. He bore witness! He warned! It's as if he is handing the reader at home the conversations we expats got to have in Prague with our Czech friends about what it was like.

I can't recommend the book enough. It would make a wonderful book to read together as a family for an intergenerational discussion about freedom.

This book has been widely acclaimed both as a Caldecott Honor book for distinguished illustration (the author's wonderful drawings help tell the story), and as the winner of the Siebert award for the most distinguished informational title in America, for children, in the year it was published.

Here is a short interview with the author.

From "The Wall: Growing Up Behind the Iron Curtain"

“When my American family goes to visit my Czech family in the colorful city of Prague, it is hard to convince them it was ever a dark place full of fear, suspicion, and lies. I find it difficult to explain my childhood; it’s hard to put it into words, and since I have always drawn everything, I have tried to draw my life— before America—for them.”                 —Peter Sis

You may be interested in these other reads:

The Restoration of Order: The Normalization of Czechoslovakia" by Milan Simecka

How We Survived Communism and Even Laughed by Slavenka Drakulic

In Prague, You Can Enjoy Reading "Café Europa" at the Café Europa

WWII was worse for Central Europe than even our histories and memories tell us

Heda Kovaly, Czech Who Wrote of Totalitarianism, Is Dead at 91  

Understanding Iran: The Power of One Graphic Novel named "Persepolis"


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A Gift to the Future

The Sidewalk Along

Barbaros Boulevard in Istanbul

 

One of the pleasures of my daily life in Istanbul is this sidewalk. Every time I walk on it, I am filled with gratitude for the thoughtful planner and builders who created it. The width of it seems extraordinarily luxurious in a crowded city.

 

Trees were planted long ago by people who would never get to experience them grown the way I do everyday when I walk under them. These people created a gift to the future.

 

I always ask myself when I am walking here, "did I plant a gift to the future today?"

 

 

 

 

 

You might also enjoy these other posts with amazing walks:

 

It's Tulip Time at Istanbul's Emirgan Park

 

Topkapi Palace, Part One: Would This Environment Keep You Conquering?

 

The Best View in Cadenet, France is now Free to All

 

I Needed Some Cash in My New Neighborhood

 

 



Looking back at Cihangir in Gratitude Not to Be There

A very loud construction site

home to a new hotel

Too loud for me!

Last year, I moved to the neighborhood of Cihangir from the western part of Istanbul. I was very excited to live in a culturally vibrant neighborhood known for its cafes and hipsters. I made it all of a month-and-a-half before moving out of there.

 

It was so loud and dusty! I used to live down the street from that minaret, which seemed like a great location at the time, because it was so close to public transportation and the Bosphorus. Maybe someday it will be. For now, it has this gigantic multi-year construction project going on in the neighborhood. Plus, additional noise coming from Erasmus students coming home from a night of revelry at all hours of the night. Gosh, I'm glad I don't live there anymore. My new place has been a source of constant peace and joy.

Afternoon tea and pastry with Guest Chef Yann Duytsche in the Gazebo Lounge at Cırağan Palace Kempinski

When Istanbullis want a sweet treat, they frequently head to the Gazebo Lounge at the Cırağan Palace Kempinski. The lounge has that see-and-be-seen stir of elegant people discussing engaging things while enjoying exceptional edibles. Were the food not so outstanding, it would be easy to take one's eyes off the edibles to appreciate all of the assembled aficionados of delectable desserts.

But it is actually impossible to stop looking at the food. The Gazebo Lounge features the pastry of Master Chocolatier and Philadelphian, Executive Pastry Chef William McCarrick, who was recognized by the entire Kempinski hotel chain when his dessert was selected 2013 Dessert of the Year in a blind taste test.  His creation is a sweet called the Bosphorale, combining bergamot-scented Earl Grey tea from the Black Sea region, and Turkish apricots from Kayseri with the finest Swiss Valrhona chocolate under a shiny glaze.

Talent greets talent:

Chef William McCarrick on the right

host to Chef Yann Duytsche, on the left

This year the Gazebo Lounge is celebrating its dessert destination status by inviting three world-class guest chefs to share their creativity with the Istanbul food-obsessed community. Pastry Chef William McCarrick suggested Frenchman Yann Duytsche as the very first guest chef for the Gazebo Lounge at Cırağan Palace Kempinski. Yann Duytsche is from northern France in Lille but finds himself drawn to the food cultures of the Mediterranean. He owns his own pastry shop in Barcelona, Spain named 'dolç par yann duytsche.'

 

Chef Yann suggests anyone visitng his shop in Barcelona try his signature breakfast sweet, the Karre Mango Croissant, and then take home his bestselling dark chocolate and passion fruit cake plus two or three kinds of cookies.

 

When Chef Yann asked where I was from, I shared that I was American. He said "America has delicious dessert creations - maybe not so sophisticated -but we all make them: cheesecake, cookies, brownies, and carrot cake."



 The chocolate club sandwich features

a crisp caramelized puff pastry. 

Chef Yann begins to assemble his

chocolate club sandwich

with help from Zeynep.

 

Notice the luscious green pesto

made of roka (arugula) and pine nuts.

It's a trend new to me to feature vegetables

in pastry.

 

A smudge of pesto

and a splash of carrots & apricot

nest a sandwich of thin luxe dark chocolate

with lighter chocolate inside.

"I like to play with a dessert that

one almost wants to pick up with one's hands."

The Chocolate Club Sandwich 

Having a guest chef come to Istanbul for a weekend is very much like having a top musician come in and give a master class, only in this case, it is a master class in pastry. "Yann is one of the top pastry chefs in the world," said Chef William. "I worked with him in 1989 in France for a week. We have kept in touch since then. Yann and I have had conversations through the months before he came about what he would make when he was here. His style has a sense of humor - you can see it in what he calls his chocolate club sandwich."

Cırağan chefs come out of the kitchen

to commemorate the moment

The energy in the Gazebo Lounge was sky-high as Yann and Zeynep, who was assisting him, began to assemble desserts for tasting. "The entire team is really excited to have him here," said Chef William. "I told my team to rest up on their day off and don't go shopping or be on their feet. The would need all of their energy for this moment."  I realized what sound advice this was later when Chef William showed me an app on his phone that showed he had walked 17 kilometers the day before just in the course of his work at the hotel.

The Valrhona chocolate ingots

created an inspiring foundation

for creation.

These desserts

have achieved global appreciation

and not just because of the gold leaf

on top.

 

Chef Duytsche led a team of Spanish

pastry chefs to first place

 at the Club de la Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie

(World Pastry Cup Club) in Lyon, France,

the premier world event for the pastry-making elite.

Chef Yann's creations will be featured at three afternoon teas from 3-5 p.m. Friday (yesterday), Saturday and Sunday. His creations will also be the showpiece of the Sunday brunch.

"Chef Yann is interested in the newest trends. The creative brief I gave him was to push the boundaries even farther." When Chef William McCarrick explained some of what the two of them had planned for Sunday brunch it sounded delicious, and frankly, gravity-defying. Also, on Sunday they will feature a festive cake at brunch enjoyed by Lionel Massi, a sportsman well known to Europeans.

 Another pairing well-matched for Istanbul:

a crunchy chocolate base supporting eggplant.

It was delicious.

 

Surely, the addition of vegetables

means all of this pastry is good for us.

 

Chef Yann has created desserts with

asparagus, tarragon, even potatoes.

He said it is easy to bring sweet vegetables

to pastry, and each element has sense in context.

And what is Chef Yann most excited to learn during his stay in Istanbul? "He's most interested to learn about baklava, because the hotel has our very own baklava chef. We made him a savory mushroom baklava to sample," said Chef William.

Chef Yann also added that "he enjoyed eating at Tuğra, the Ottoman-inspired restaurant in the Cırağan Palace Kempinski that overlooks the Bosphorus. I want to see the markets too, to see how Oriental meets Occidental."

What he most enjoyed sharing with the staff in the Gazebo Lounge is his combinations of ingredients, the sophistication of presentation, and his specific aesthetic. "It's like creating a garden. Pastry doesn't need decoration. The decoration comes by how it is all arranged."

Many of the city's writing foodies

enthusiastically watched the preparations.

Large newspapers and

food website representatives

 were present

plus solo bloggers like me.

A Japanese inspired dessert:

Doraiaki

My selection of treats

served alongside a very elegant

presentation of

Earl Gray English tea.

One of the most fun parts about participating in this

was meeting other writers,

especially Turkish ones.

Two young culinary students

who write for http://iyiyemek.com/:

Burak Özbay on the left and Gizem Dinçbaş on the right.

Burak said this about his studies,

"You don't pick gastronomy to study.

Gastronomy picks you."

Chef McCarrick and his mentee, Ayşe

Chef McCarrick wanted to make sure I met one of his team members, Ayşe. Having cooked all over the world in Switzerland, Austria, Hong Kong, Taiwan, the Phillipines, Malasia, Bali in Indonesia, Dubai, London, and Istanbul he felt particularly strong that his legacy at Cırağan Palace Kempinski must be more than "putting cakes on the counter."

He said, "Ayşe is like a flower that just needs to be watered. She has tremendous potential as a chef. I want to help women succeed in this role because she will need thick skin to rise in this industry. Turkey doesn't have a tradition of women moving past helpers or assistants. When I was just starting out as a chef in Delaware, a chef helped me move to Switzerland to learn from another great chef. Part of bringing a guest chef to Istanbul, is to make opportunities happen for up-and-coming chefs to learn all around the world. When someone has personally met you it makes it easier for them to take a risk on you being on their staff for a few months." As I watched Ayşe's face beam under Chef McCarrick's words, I had to turn away less the catch in my throat and the tears in my eyes peaked out.

Thank you, gentlemen,

for an exquisite afternoon tea

and an inspiring day

watching your excellence in action.

I could see why the Gazebo Lounge is the "heaven of desserts" where people in Istanbul go when they feel like having a sweet. It is an avenue to all of the sweet things in life.

You May Also Enjoy:

An afternoon of nargile at Cırağan Palace Kempinski

 

Dinner on the Bosphorus at the Çırağan Palace Kempinski's Bosphorus Grill

 

My first Hammam in Istanbul at the Çirağan Palace Kempinski Hotel, Part One

 

Part Two of My First Istanbul Hammam Adventure at Çirağan Palace Kempinski Hotel

Yes, Empty Nest Expat is on Facebook. 'Like" my page and follow my blog.

An afternoon of nargile at Cırağan Palace Kempinski

 My friend Barb and I had planned to meet a bunch of friends in Istanbul's Yıldız Park for a fitness challenge this weekend. Unfortunately, none of them showed up! We lost our motivation to explore the park. "Let's go across the street to the fumoir in the Cırağan Palace and I'll teach you to smoke nargile," I said. So we did.

First, we wanted to explore the palace.

A view of the Palm Court

from the Grand Staircase.

Imaginative use of glass

creates an aesthetically-pleasing

 foyer within the grand stairwell.

The glass chandelier was unlit

but we could imagine its warm glow.

Cırağan Palace Kempinski artwork

of ladies like us

enjoying the Bosphorus

back in the day.

A view of the Bosphorus

from the Sultan's balcony.

The hospitable and lovely Barçak

at the Hendrick's gin cart

Nargile pipes at rest

The eye-catching array of nargile water pipes

and the pots of fruit flavors

waiting for us to choose.

I suggested apple flavoring

because it is most popular.

Our drinks arrived

and rested on cloth coasters.

They were served alongside Mediterranean treats

of olives, hazelnuts, and cashews.

An Istanbul still life!

The drinks were so quenching!

A refreshing slice of cucumber

set off a glittering gin and tonic.

The drink on the right was gin
infused with rose flavoring.
It was called the Sebestian Vettel
(named for a famous Formula 1 driver).
We selected it from the part of the beverage menu
that showcased drinks
celebrities chose when they stayed there.

Barb said Hendrick's gin was especially known for the

herbaceousness of its flavor.

Naruttin primed the coals

and showed us where the flavoring

went in the pipe.

I'm always struck how by deeply

nargile staff breathe in the smoke.

They prime the pump

by getting the coals burning.

Barb about to try her first puff.

Each smoker uses a disposable tip

that they remove every time they pass the pipe.

It is the yellow part at the top of the pipe.

Barb's first puff of nargile.

Not a bad spot for a relaxing

afternoon conversation.

The expat life!

With typical American attitudes about smoking (we're both against it and find it unattractive), neither of us thought we'd ever try nargile. Yet living in Istanbul makes one appreciate the joy of slowing down, breathing deep, and engaging in conversation with a fellow human being in an unhurried, almost meditative manner.

 

I like this tradition better than the American tradition of staring at a screen in a sports bar and not talking to each other much. Sharing nargile seems very intimate and close. Besides, it was fun to watch the staff set up for a wedding happening later that night under the palms.

 

You May Also Enjoy:

 

Dinner on the Bosphorus at the Çırağan Palace Kempinski's Bosphorus Grill

 

My first Hammam in Istanbul at the Çirağan Palace Kempinski Hotel, Part One

 

Part Two of My First Istanbul Hammam Adventure at Çirağan Palace Kempinski Hotel  

Yıldız Park Bridal Beauty

An exquisitely dressed bride

smiles on her way to her photo shoot

Every weekend in Yıldız Park in Beşiktaş, brides come to have their photos taken amidst the greenery of the park. It is so fun to see the variety of head coverings and dresses. This bride's beauty stopped me cold.

Istanbul finds out today if it will host the 2020 Olympics

Istanbul's promotional video

for the 2020 Olympics

Today the citizens of Turkey find out if their Olympic bid for the 2020 Olympics will be awarded to them. I wish all Turkish citizens "Iyi şanslar!" on their bid. Turkey would be the first Muslim country to ever be awarded the Olympic Games. As a country with a young, growing population, it would be a terrific fit. Yes, there would be all kinds of problems to be solved, such as smooth traffic flow, but I believe Turkey is up to the task!

Five Minutes of Magic

I saw the man first.
He was in a long royal purple tunic with white pants.
A cult member, surely, I thought.

Then I rounded the corner
and saw another man in the same dress.
Ha! A cult convention.

Then I came up against the limits of my knowledge.
It couldn't be a cult.
There were so many of them.
Not just men. Whole families.
And so many beautiful women.

 

 Her sandals.

Those "I Dream of Jeannie" sandals!

 

Happy.
Joyous.
Crackling with energy.

I laughed at myself, recognizing my own American parochialness.
Don't we always compare new information to our old information?
I understood instantly these were a people I had never seen or met before.

One

exquisitely dressed woman

after another

poured out of the hotel.

"Where are you from?" I asked.
"Pakistan, he said. "We are here for a wedding."

The island of Jamaica

sent spectacular sunshine.

"Are you from Pakistan too?"
I asked a gorgeous young woman
dressed differently than the others.
"No, I'm from Jamaica." she said.

"Of course you are!" I thought,
marveling at Istanbul's constant ability
to make the ordinary encounter extraordinary.
I'm sure Jamaicans at Pakistani weddings are a common sight,
don't you think?

Do they have ring bearers

at Pakistani weddings?

I wondered.

A tween

in all of her finery.

I'll picture these lovely people

when I read a story about Pakistan

in the future.

 

I'll picture this little girl

in all of her bracelets

and veils.

The beautiful Pakistani women

blew me kisses

from the bus

as they left.

 

I hope they had a wonderful time.

The Woman in White

Twilight beckons on the Bosphorus

But the Woman in White is unmoved.

Recommended Reading for Thoughtful Americans: "The Limits of Power" by Andrew J. Bacevich

Andrew J. Bacevich

I have wanted to read the book "The Limits of Power" ever since hearing Andrew J. Bacevich at the Wisconsin Book Festival a few years back. An idea he expressed there that made my jaw drop was that America's empire building was the activity of citizens uninterested in reforming their own nation.

Referring to the work of United States theologian Reinhold Niebuhr (author of the serenity prayer), Bacevich felt expansionist militaristic activity represented almost an addict's way of denying the reality that there are "limits to power."

His book was just as compelling as the talk I had originally heard. I admired his ability to dissect American thinking from within America.

Bacevich urges readers not to look to their politicians with blame for their dependence on foreign oil, necessary military expansion to access it, and demands that the world conform to America's way of thinking. He argues the politicians have just sold Americans what they want to buy: a foreign policy based on grandiosity without the budget or wherewithal to achieve it.

“History will not judge kindly a people who find nothing amiss in the prospect of endless armed conflict so long as they themselves are spared the effects. Nor will it view with favor an electorate that delivers political power into the hands of leaders unable to envision any alternative to perpetual war.

Rather than insisting the world accommodate the United States, Americans need to reassert control over their own destiny, ending their condition of dependency and abandoning their imperial delusions. “ - page 13

I found this to be deeply inspiring, deeply patriotic reading. Bacevich asks Americans to ask more of themselves. Bacevich's book made me want to read everything else he has written. He has a new book soon to come out called "Breach of Trust: How Americans Failed Their Soldiers and Their Country."

 

"The Limits of Power" is part of a whole series of titles called "The American Empire Project" devoted to asking Americans to consider whether empire is the highest expression of the American idea. More titles can be found at www.americanempireproject.com

 

If you would like to hear an interview with Andrew J. Bacevich from when the book was published, click here for part one. To learn more about this public intellectual who attracts interest from both sides of the political aisle, click here. 

 

Andrew J. Bacevich believes Americans are still in denial and not ready to face that we are choosing a life of dependency on foreign oil and credit. He says there is nothing in the preamble to the Constitution to try and "remake the World in our image" and our perpetual war to 'spread freedom' actually detracts from freedom at home.

 

While Americans view our projection of military power as a strength, Bacevich actually argues our perpetual war is a way of delaying our acknowledgement that we have chosen to squander our power (and our moral authority, when we choose global preemptive war) for our generation and generations to come.

 

An example from the book of what Americans should be working on vs. what we are working on:

For the United States, abolishing nuclear weapons ought to be an urgent national security priority. So too should preserving our planet. These are the meta-challenges of our time. Addressing them promises to be the work of decades. Yet ridding the world of nuclear weapons is likely to prove far more plausible and achievable than ridding the world of evil [something Bush said he would do - an example of American foreign policy grandiosity]. Transforming humankind's relationship to the environment, which will affect the way people live their daily lives, can hardly prove more difficult than transforming the Greater Middle East, which requires changing the way a billion or more Muslims think. -page 178

What do you think? Is American engagement with the world attempting that which we can not pay for or even accomplish (eliminating evil, establishing Western democracy in countries that don't have it)? What's your view? How would America go about changing our priorities, especially when continuing with perpetual war and lack of reform benefits those in power?

 

 

 

You may also be interested these other posts:

 

Understanding Iran: The Power of One Graphic Novel called "Persepolis"

 

"The Restoration of Order: The Normalization of Czechoslovakia" by Milan Simecka

 

 

Dinner on the Bosphorus at the Çırağan Palace Kempinski's Bosphorus Grill

I love experiences that heighten the senses. It was with great anticipation that I accepted an invitation to dine at the Çırağan Palace Kempinski's Bosphorus Grill. It's not everyday that one is invited to dine where sultans did, in an Ottoman palace setting, no less.

Earlier this year, I had had my first hammam in Istanbul at the Çırağan Palace Kempinski. Knowing the excellence that the Kempinski Hotel group brought to the operation of their properties, I knew that dinner at the Çırağan Palace Kempinski would be just as divine.

Outside the actual palace,

the gates for arriving water craft

gave a hint of the Bosphorus beauty to come.

Spectacular flowers

greet guests on entry to the hotel:

roses, orchids, lilies, and my favorite:

hydrangeas

I glanced up above the reception desk

to appreciate for a moment

the way one would arrive

at the Çırağan Palace

back in Ottoman times.

 The stately Laledan restaurant

where the weekly Sunday brunch is held.

I would pass through Laledan on my way to the

outdoor Bosphorus grill.

Every inch of the grounds

contribute to relaxing guests.

 

Palm trees and salvia create a

destination entrance

to the Bosphorus Grill.

My hostesses:

Lara and Ciler,

two dynamic young professional

Turkish women who are

superb stewards of the hotel's legacy.

 Lara and Ciler

recommended we try

a Turkish wine from

Bozcadda Island.

 

Corvus Corvus

came from

a high-tech boutique winery

started by an Istanbul architect

and his wife.

They had left everything

to move to the island

and had begun to make wine.

 How romantic.

Children would love the Bosphorus Grill

because the boats come extra close

to see the Palace and the property.

Sezai Erdoğan

is the first Turkish

Executive Chef

at Çırağan Palace Kempinski

in Istanbul,

a pioneering achievement.

Aferin!

 

He is in charge of all the restaurant

and banquet kitchens

within the hotel.

 

Soon after Chef Erdoğan

came by to wish us a good meal,

 Mother Nature added to the evening's enjoyment

by rolling in a mighty thunderstorm

 from the Black Sea:

The storm was so much fun to experience!

The storm came quickly

from the Black Sea,

changed the skies over the Bosphorus

and poured down rain,

and just as quickly,

moved on to the Marmara Sea

at the other end of the Bosphorus.

When the rain stopped,

we went to the banquet area to peek

at what was on offer.

Turkey has extraordinary fruits

during the summer season,

especially Adana watermelon,

fresh melons, apricots, and pears.

 

Notice too, the large Medjool dates

which are

traditionally used to break

a Ramazan fast

due to the amount of sweet, filling, flesh

found in a single date.

That's important for those who have been fasting

since before sunrise.

Eating one date immediately

upon the end of a day's fast

removes the edge of hunger.

 There was a beautiful salad bar.

I resisted.

When in Turkey,

why have salad,

when Turkish chefs

prepare sumptuous mezes

to offer a bit of this and a bit of that?

Oh, and here they are.

Choices upon choices.

Green chicken curry with bamboo shoot

and cashew nut

Sautéed oyster mushrooms with fresh herbs

Grilled baby fennel with carrots

Ratatouille with basil

My final selection of mezes.

Believe me, it was hard to choose.

Looking at the bottom left,

have you even seen smoked salmon and strawberries

paired like that?

That was an idea new to me -

and what a delicious combination.

It was Smoked salmon and avocado salad

with strawberry and balsamic sauce.

 

An eggplant meze up front

because Turkish chefs

know how to make eggplant sing.

This was a Soya marinated,

baked eggplant salad with and fried onions.

 

Fennel comfit with root vegetables,

cinnamon, and star anise

because somehow the Europeans have kept the secret

of how delicious fennel is to themselves.

America has yet to discover fennel

in a big way.

 

Purslane salad with yogurt, garlic and peanuts

(not only is it a delicious salad green,

purslane is a very healthy super food),

also sweet potato salad

 with beef bacon and fresh herbs.

 

Potatoes gratin with truffles -

what satisfying comfort food.

 

The star of the plate was that tiny oven-roasted pear

with ricotta cheese and balsamic dressing.

Wow, it was fantastic.

 After our meze course,

we went back to the grill.

There were roasted lambs and chickens

and vegetables.

Chef d'parti Ibrahim Ünalan demonstrated

how he puts the naan on the side of the oven wall

with his naan mitt -

a detail kids would love

to watch performed

while they peer into the naan oven.

I had never seen this before.

So this is how naan is cooked!

There were so many meats

to choose from for a custom grill.

I choose two delicate lamb chops.

It was a hard choice, because the

pistachio-marinated beef tenderloin

also called out to me.

For those who preferred fish for their grill course,

there was mackerel, and salmon, and prawns

and many other fresh, top-quality choices.

Beef tenderloin

I can get back home,

but lamb done Ottoman-style

is not so easily found

in America.

I made the right choice!

 

 

Our final selection of the evening

was dessert.

What choices!

 Chef Ibrahim shows off

five different kinds of

homemade baklava.

 I think I'll have to try one

 of those small chocolate mousses

in the bottom right corner.

More tortes, cakes, and puddings.

Homemade mango sorbet

accompanied with chocolate mousse

and seasonal summer fruits.

What a beautiful finish to

a lovely dinner

at Çırağan Palace Kempinski's

Bosphorus Grill.

 

To see the entire menu

and price list,

click here.

 

 

 

You may also be interested in:

 

My first Hammam at the Çırağan Palace Kempinski Hotel, Part One

 

My first Hammam at the Çırağan Palace Kempenski Hotel, Part Two

 

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